Know the Language
Lash Lift & Lamination Glossary
The words that come up in every lift, lamination and training session, in plain English. Each entry links to the products or techniques it belongs to.
Chemistry
- Lash lift
- A chemical service that reshapes the natural lashes so they sit lifted and curled. A reducing lotion softens the lash, the lash is held in its new position on a rod or shield, and a setting lotion locks the shape in. It grows out with the natural lash cycle.
- Lash lamination
- The same chemistry as a lash lift, in theory. The name is usually used for a lift that aims for straighter, lengthened, upward lashes rather than a rounded curl. See Lash lamination
- Brow lamination
- The same two-step reshaping applied to brow hairs, so they can be brushed up and set in a fuller, more uniform direction. See Brow lamination
- Disulfide bonds
- The bonds inside the hair that hold its natural shape. Step 1 softens them, and Step 2 rebuilds them in the new position.
- Reduction (Step 1)
- The lifting or reshaping step. An alkaline lotion swells the hair, opens the cuticle and softens the disulfide bonds so the lash can be redirected.
- Oxidation (Step 2)
- The setting or neutralizing step. A hydrogen peroxide setting lotion reforms the bonds in the new shape and restores strength.
- TGA (thioglycolic acid)
- A fast-acting reducing agent. One Shot is a thioglycolic acid system, which is why it is quick to process and asks for more control. See One Shot Lash Lift
- Cysteamine HCl (CHC)
- A slower, more flexible reducing agent. Elleeplex Profusion is a cysteamine HCl system with no thioglycolate, and it is the recommended system for Korean, Freestyle and glueless lifting. See Elleeplex Profusion
- Dual reduction
- Two reducing agents working together instead of one. Brik & Pearl Bond Flex pairs ammonium thioglycolate with cysteamine HCl, for the speed of a traditional lift with the control of a gentler chemistry. See Brik & Pearl
- Bond builder
- A treatment that supports the hair's internal bonds during a chemical service. Elleeplex ReGen folds into the existing service rather than adding a separate step. See Elleeplex ReGen
- Viscosity controller
- A thickener that turns a runny lotion into a workable paste, so it stays where it is placed and away from the eye. Elleemix Powder is the viscosity controller in the Korean and glueless methods. See Elleemix Powder
Tools and forms
- Rod
- A rounded silicone form the lashes are wrapped over for a classic C-curl. Flex Rods need no adhesive on the back. See Elleebana Flex Rods
- Shield
- A flatter silicone form for more length and less curl than a rod. See Elleebana Flex Shields
- Hybrid shield
- A rod base under a straight upward lift, for height without the curl folding back on itself. See Elleebana Flex Hybrid Shields
- Flat shield
- A flat form used in the Korean lash lift, where lashes are swept up for projection and length rather than curl. See Elleebana Ultra Flex Flat Shields
- Lash lift balm
- A balm that holds lashes to the rod or shield like an adhesive while conditioning them like a balm. See Elleebalm
- Single-use sachet
- A pre-portioned pouch of lotion for one service, so every client gets fresh product. One Shot and Elleeplex Profusion come in sachets.
- Airless pump bottle
- A bottle that dispenses without letting air in, protecting the formula between services. Brik & Pearl comes in 10ml airless pump bottles. See Brik & Pearl
Techniques
- Traditional lift
- Lashes are adhered to the rod or shield first, and then the Step 1 lotion goes on.
- Relax up / relax down
- Which way the lashes soften. Relax up means the lashes are swept up onto the shield before Step 1. Relax down means Step 1 goes on while the lashes rest downward.
- Korean lash lift
- Lashes swept up onto a flat shield, with thickened lotion in both steps, for length and projection on coarse, dense or downward-growing lashes. See Korean Lash Lift
- Freestyle lash lift
- Step 1 applied while lashes rest downward, then wrapped once soft. A gentler, lower-tension lift. See Freestyle Lash Lift
- Glueless (adhesive-free) lift
- The Freestyle order with no adhesive. Thickening both steps holds the lashes and keeps the lotion in place. See Glueless Lash Lift
- Hybrid lash lift
- The Korean method worked on one rod or hybrid shield from start to finish, for a rounder curl and fewer steps. See Hybrid Lash Lift
Checks and results
- Flex check
- A readiness check during Step 1. A softened lash bends back into a deep V. A lash that resists in a C shape is not ready yet.
- Set check
- A readiness check during Step 2. A properly set lash springs back into its lifted position as soon as it is released.
- Lash bath
- A thorough rinse with water after setting, so no product is left on the lashes, lids or surrounding skin.
- Overprocessing
- Lotion left on longer than that client's hair can take, which shows up as frizz, dryness or splitting. Any brand can overprocess.
- Porosity
- How readily the hair takes in liquid. It is one of the things, with diameter, density and chemical history, that changes how fast a client's lashes respond.
- Lash growth cycle
- Lashes grow, rest and shed on their own schedule, so a lift grows out gradually as new lashes replace lifted ones.
For anything about timings, mixing or a specific client, ask Ellee, our product expert, or talk to Reid Ryan, Polymorph Beauty's master educator.