Shade choice is the question I get most from artists who are adding tinting to their menu. They have the tubes lined up, the client is in the chair, and suddenly six shades feels like a lot of ways to get it wrong. (It's six tubes, not a final exam.) The decision is simpler than it looks once you separate two things: the client's hair color, and whether you are tinting lashes or brows.
Belmacil is a Swiss-formulated professional tint for lashes and brows. It is its own company, owned by Elleebana, and in the US it comes in six shades. Here is how I think about each one.
Know the six US shades first
- 1 Black: a solid, matte black.
- 2 Blue Black: a deep black with a dark blue luster. It is not a blue; it is a black that reads richer.
- 3 Dark Brown: a very dark brown.
- 3.1 Light Brown: an ash-based light brown. Belmacil's own guide calls it the most suitable brow color, and it also tones very light lashes.
- 3.3 Honey Brown: a red-based brown, and the lightest of the mid browns.
- 5 Graphite: a charcoal that develops to a deep charcoal. It works well on gray and white hair and is a favorite for mature clients.
If you have seen Belmacil shades like Blue, Violet, Red or Green online, those fashion shades are not sold in the US. If a mixing formula you find online calls for one of them, skip that formula rather than trying to fake it.
The shades are made to be intermixed, which is where six tubes become a much bigger palette.
Lashes and brows are two different decisions
On lashes, the goal is usually definition. Most clients want their lashes to look like they are wearing mascara without wearing it, so I tend to go deeper than their natural hair color.
On brows, the goal is framing the face. A brow that is too dark reads harsh very quickly, so I usually stay close to the client's hair color or slightly softer, and build depth gradually rather than all at once. Blue Black is generally not recommended for brows. Save it for lashes. Nobody has ever left my chair wishing her brows were bluer.
The hair-color suggestions below, especially for lashes, are a starting point I use, not a rule. Match them to the client, and ask Ellee or your trainer for anything unusual.
Blonde hair
Brows: Light Brown is my starting point. Because it is ash-based, it gives a soft, natural brow rather than a warm one, which is what most blonde clients are asking for.
Lashes: Light Brown tones very light lashes beautifully for the client who wants a subtle change. For the blonde client who wants real definition, I talk through Dark Brown or Black with her before I mix anything. The consultation matters more here than with any other hair color, because the jump from "invisible lashes" to "defined lashes" is big, and you want her to expect it.
Red hair
Brows: Honey Brown is red-based, so it is a starting point I use for red and strawberry tones. For a brow that needs a little more depth without going harsh, I blend Light Brown with Honey Brown, a mix Belmacil suggests for a deeper brow in general. Match it to the client, and ask Ellee or your trainer for anything unusual. If you also offer a brow-only hybrid tint, Infinity Aqua Drops has a red shade, Ares, which is another option for red brows. Infinity is a separate company from Elleebana, and Aqua Drops is for brows only.
Lashes: Red-haired clients often have very fair lashes. I decide between a softer brown and a deeper shade based on how much definition she wants, the same conversation I have with blondes.
Brown hair
Brows: This is where blending earns its keep. For a deeper brow without harshness, Belmacil suggests mixing Light Brown with Dark Brown, or Light Brown with Honey Brown if you want warmth. Build the depth gradually.
Lashes: My starting point is Dark Brown for a natural look, Black for more drama.
Dark hair
Lashes: Black is the classic choice. For a deep, rich black with a little luster, Black mixed with Blue Black is one of Belmacil's own suggested combinations, and it is the one I reach for when a client says she wants her lashes as dark as they can go.
Brows: Dark Brown is the usual match. Depending on the client's base color, Graphite can stand in for Dark Brown on brows when you want a cooler result. Keep Blue Black off the brows.
Gray and white hair
Brows: Graphite works well on gray and white hair, and for mature clients' brows it is often my first choice. For a softer, more natural gray brow, Belmacil suggests Light Brown with just the slightest touch of Graphite.
Lashes: Gray lashes still benefit from definition. Silver is a look. Invisible is not. I choose based on the client's skin tone and how much contrast she is comfortable with, and Graphite is a middle ground I often start with when Black feels too strong for her.
One note on wording: Graphite covers gray well, but it was not formulated specifically for gray hair. It is a charcoal shade that happens to suit gray and mature clients, so describe it that way to your clients too.
Let the client's hair have the final say
Every shade suggestion, including mine, is a guide rather than a guarantee. The true result depends on the client's own hair: its natural depth, its texture, and its condition that day.
Two things I always keep in mind:
- Lifted and laminated hair looks different. After a lift or lamination, hair can look lighter or more matte, and an applied tint can appear more intense. Watch the hair, not just the clock.
- Keep the system together. Belmacil is designed to be used with Belmacil Crème Oxydant, a 3% cream developer. Do not swap in another brand's developer.
Patch test before every tint service. For mixing, development and anything technique-specific, Ellee has Belmacil's guidance on file and will walk you through it.
Common questions
Is there a blue Belmacil shade in the US? No. The US range is six shades: 1 Black, 2 Blue Black, 3 Dark Brown, 3.1 Light Brown, 3.3 Honey Brown and 5 Graphite. Blue Black is a black with a dark blue luster, not a blue.
Can I use Graphite on gray brows? Yes. Graphite works well on gray and white hair and is a popular choice for mature clients' brows. For a softer finish, try Light Brown with the slightest touch of Graphite.
Can I mix Belmacil shades together? Yes. The shades are intermixable, and some of my favorite results come from blends. For specific formulas, ask Ellee.
What if my client has reacted to a tint before? Do not try to pick your way around it with a different shade or brand. Patch test first, and talk it through with your trainer before you go any further.
Ask Ellee, our product expert at polymorphbeauty.com.
